We've all had it happen. You just got the cutest necklace, have only worn it a few times and it's tarnished! Even worse, it's turned your neck green! It can be a little confusing when jewelry shopping for you or a loved one. You want to purchase a quality piece, but with all the terminology out there how do you know what you're buying?
Here we'll break it down:
What is Gold Plate?
Gold plated jewelry is a very light layer of gold - 0.05% actual gold or less - on top of a base metal (usually brass or copper). The thin layer of gold is plated onto the base metal to create gold plated jewelry.
Since the gold plating is very thin, the gold can rub off easily. It is also more prone to tarnishing when exposed to any kinds of liquids or chemicals. Although gold itself does not corrode, copper and brass will, especially when exposed to liquids (in the air, sweat, lotion, perfume, etc). Gold plated jewelry is much, much cheaper than the other types of gold jewelry because it uses a tiny amount of gold on top of a base metal. Gold plated jewelry is a good option if you need jewelry for just an occasion, or for trying out new trends.
What is Gold Vermeil?
Vermeil (pronounced vehr-may) is a legally regulated term that refers to a certain kind of quality jewelry. To be legally called "vermeil" in the United States, the jewelry piece must meet ALL of these conditions:
1. Have sterling silver as its base material. Sterling silver is an alloy made of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other materials, and is a standard material used in high quality jewelry (versus, e.g., brass or copper).
2. Be plated in gold that is at least 10k (10 karats). That means the gold is at least 41.7% gold content.
3. Have gold plating that is at least 2.5 microns thick. A micron is 1/1000th of a millimeter.
In the realm of gold-tone jewelry, gold vermeil is the best quality jewelry you can get short of buying solid gold. For people who want a less expensive, high quality alternative to solid gold, gold vermeil is perfect.
What is Gold Filled?
Gold filled is a solid layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base - jeweler’s brass. US standards require the gold layer to consist of 1/20th (or 5%) of the jewelry’s total weight. The gold is usually 14k gold, but sometimes may be 12k gold (sometimes stamped with 14/20 or 12/20, respectively).
Gold filled has some limitations because of the way it is manufactured; it is only available in wire or sheet form, so it cannot be casted or poured into a mold. Gold filled charms are either flat (made from sheets), or hollow (two pieces of sheet metal soldered together).
Gold filled jewelry has almost 100x more gold than gold plated jewelry. Since the gold is mechanically bonded to the base rather than plated, it can’t rub off. It has the same qualities as solid gold jewelry at a fraction of the cost. It's also great for people who are allergic to metals, as the material is hypoallergenic.
What’s Best for Me?
So armed with the quick and dirty, you can make your best judgement when shopping for those perfect pieces. And the best type of gold jewelry that's suited for you depends on a number of factors; budget, how often you wear your jewelry, care and maintenance, and more. We love gold filled and gold vermeil because they're both affordable, yet high quality enough for everyday wear. But of course gold plated jewelry has it's place too as being affordable fashion pieces meant for accessorizing.